The
St. Louis Zoo is one of the must-sees of the city. Governed by three boards, the park is essentially a government entity and made free to the general public. Tracing its roots back to the original Flight Cage from the 1904 World's Fair (a bird cage still operating today), the zoo has become a staple to the surrounding Forest Park area, as well as an important and cherished piece of St. Louis history. The park is home to about 18,000 animals found in areas divided roughly by home terrain. While most of the animals have outdoor room to roam, some of the more... exotic animals are housed in what can only be described as giant indoor temples created to celebrate our living world (I highly recommend the Herpetarium if you are not afraid of slithering things). One of the more exciting animals is the critically endangered Amur Leopard, a big cat with only about 40 individuals left in the wild.
Our visit was short-lived, of course. Not long after we began our journey through the park did the rain begin to come down. We were already on a time limit as it was (more on this shortly), so we only got to briefly see the indoor exhibits. The trip was not in vain, of course, as my girlfriend loved the butterfly and penguin houses, which were really why we wanted to visit in the first place. Our only disappointment came from learning that the former polar bear displays had been replaced due to the unfortunate death of the already troubled animals. They were always a favorite to my family, and I shudder to think that we may be reaching a point where those always-happy polar bears will no longer exist.
After our zoo trip, we began the search for food. Being Easter Sunday, our original trip to The Hill had been unsuccessful (my parents, being parents, would not listen the my reasoning that a prominent Catholic neighborhood would not, in fact, be open for the holiday). So, just to show my girlfriend the sights, we drove down the Laclede's Landing area nestled right against the Mississippi riverbank. Lo-and-behold, the one restaurant we wanted to take her to the most was mystically open for the day, and at extended hours from what we expected to! The restaurant, of course, was
The Old Spaghetti Factory! While certainly not native to St. Louis, the OSF has always been a favorite, and we had concluded that the StL branch was indeed better than their others. Plus, it was a time-honored tradition for us to eat at the Factory before our next stop. The food was delicious, as always, and we all managed to take our time savoring the spumoni ice cream included with the meals.
With our meal concluded, we checked our watches and decided that it was time to head downtown. My parents had the foresight to book rooms at the Drury Plaza in the heart of the city, so we would be able to park our car and walk to wherever we needed to go in the immediate area. This was especially essential because there's one stop that I had to go to if I returned to St. Louis. It was something I had reserved almost before I had even bought the flights to the city. An event so rich and grounded in St. Louis culture and history that missing it would essentially mean your trip to the city was incomplete...
A St. Louis Cardinals baseball game at Busch Stadium. It's absolutely necessary. The stadium is practically a second home to many natives of the surrounding areas. Whereas cities like New York and Chicago have a slew of wonderful locations and sights, St. Louis grew in such a way that, while we have plenty of cool locations to visit, baseball would always remain at its heart. We do have other sports, yes, but you will not find the same kind of passion and pleasure that can be found at a packed game at Busch. And our home games are always packed.
Dating nearly 120 years old, the Cardinals made their official name change in 1900 and have remained rooted in downtown ever since. Names like Roger Maris, Lou Brock, Bob Gibson, and Stan The Man ring throughout the stadium on any given day, usually announced by broadcasters like Jack Buck, Harry Caray, and Mike Shannon. Although the current incarnation of Busch Stadium was built in 2006, the site it rests on has been a local landmark since the original "arches" stadium in 1966. Even on away games, a baseball fan can walk around the stadium and enjoy the beautiful statues of players past that rest outside. The best viewing is certainly behind home plate, with the wonderful view of the downtown skyline and the Gateway Arch beyond center field. It also houses a unique take on another native St. Louis business: a Build-A-Bear (or, in this case, Build-A-Fredbird) Workshop. Needless to say, the stadium is hard to miss when visiting the city, and even from outside you can hear the stadium tornado siren and fireworks roar after every Cardinal home run.
I had to make the pilgrimage, and throughout our travels, I was worried that our game would be rained out. The forecasts were not looking good with more major rain expected to hit at roughly the same time as First Pitch. To make matters even crazier, this was no ordinary game, but an ESPN Game Of The Week event day against our current rivals, the Cincinnati Reds. It was a day full of Stan The Man Bobbleheads, the first to be made after the Cardinal legend. Not only did we have to fight the rain, but we had to fight the crowd.
Our worries were for nothing, though. Upon entering the stadium, bobbleheads in tow, we actually had a very pleasant game. We had splurged on seats just 10 rows behind home plate, a first even for Cards fanatics like ourselves. Although my girlfriend does not care for baseball, the rest of my family had a great time. The rain amazingly held off until a light drizzle started around the 6th inning, and I even
got to hear my tornado siren! The family ended the night with a trip down to local bar
Caleco's, myself feeling as though the vacation was successful just from the first day alone. Eventually, I was taken out overnight by my great friend (and hopefully future LA native) Sarah, and we had a great night catching up at a nice little karaoke bar called
Novak's. I had never been before, and was pleasantly surprised. It reminded me a bit of the West Coast, and I was finally able to reconnect with people I had felt missing from my life for quite a while.
The next day in St. Louis was a little more rushed, as we had lost a day due to the tornado and were driving down to Cape Girardeau in the evening. So, we decided that my girlfriend could not visit St. Louis without going to its most famous landmark:
The Gateway Arch
Technically, the Arch's official name is the Jefferson Expansion National Memorial Park. When construction ended in 1965, its stainless steel frame stood at 630ft high. It currently remains as the tallest man-made monument in the world, able to shadow everything from the Statue of Liberty to the Washington monument to even the Great Pyramid of Giza underneath. Throughout our stay, the monument stood outside our hotel window, a welcome sight after nearly five years going without seeing it. My girlfriend commented several times on our vacation at the sheer size of it as it watches over the city.
We decided to actually go up into the Arch, which was a first even for me. Always happy to support our national parks, we bought a package that included the short documentary before escalating inside. I found it fascinating, even if the video was more than a little dated. The images of men suspended from the Arch evoked images similar to
John C. Ebbet's famous Empire state Building construction photos. Even more inspiring, the video claimed that expected several (I believe the exact number was 14) men to lose their lives atop the steel pinnacle, yet not one did. After the video, my girlfriend and I ascended through the extremely small "capsule" elevators designed specifically for the monument. The view was wonderful from the top and surprisingly roomy. I was especially happy every time someone would point out Busch Stadium from the skyway (which most of the people seemed to do at least once). However, one thing to note is that the Arch is built to sway at least 18 inches to remain flexible in high winds, and we descended rather quickly after my girlfriend felt the motion while looking over the Mississippi River side.
We also made a pit-stop at the
St. Louis City Museum.
What can only be described as one massive playground,
the museum is a wonderful place to explore and basically run around being crazy. It's not without its educational merits, however, as among the displays are and architecture and antique exhibit, as well as an aquarium. We were a little too old for most of the really fun stuff by the point, but I still had a blast climbing through what areas I still managed to squeeze through. the girlfriend was not as amused. We also managed to find (by complete luck, as most of our food had been this trip) the famous
Ozzie's right around the corner. We had come during the slow period, not even expecting it to be open but we lucked out!
Happy with the first half of our trip, we made our way down to Cape Girardeau only to be hit with even more tornadoes on the drive down Interstate-55. This would become a common occurrence during the next couple of days. Thankfully, we were not blown away by any means and enjoyed a few relaxing days with not much to do.
This part of our trip was mostly melded into one. As I mentioned, Cape Girardeau and Jackson are not large by any means. We were mostly famous as a trading post during the early Louis And Clark Expedition, and we do have a history with Mark Twain. It is exactly what you would expect a lazy river town to be. There is a massive floodwall that protects Cape from imminent doom, though the other areas have not been so lucky (evidenced by the flood of 1993, which many people have seen photos of regarding my home area over the years). This part of the vacation was spent mostly driving around or hanging out with my long-lost friends in a few of the local bars. The one major stop was a must-do restaurant known as
Lambert's Cafe. Dubbed the "
Home of the Throwed Rolls," it was recently voted as the #1 Place to Pig Out by the Travel Channel and has been featured numerous times by the Food Network and beyond. The atmosphere is that of a good home-cooking kitchen with license plates and ragtime waiters. All of the items are All-You-Can-Eat (you generally don't need seconds anyway), and include famous "pass-around" or extras that travel around the room. Of course, the most famous aspect are the hot, moist rolls that are thrown at you from across the room. I had plenty of great memories of those rolls and sorghum, and I was finally able to add new ones with my girlfriend. we both had the chicken strips and still had more than enough left over to make a complete third meal when done.
To end-cap our trip, we had planned a late flight out of town, so we finished up shop doing a few more things around St. Louis. The final big attraction that is essential to any visitor is a
free tour at
The Anheuser-Busch Brewery.
The largest brewer in the world, Budweiser is no doubt a familiar name to most people at this point. And while the free beer at the end of the tour is definitely a major highlight, the tour itself is fascinating. Containing three registered landmarks, the Busch campus covers 100 acres, almost the same size as my employer at Warner Bros. It's one of the oldest maintained structures in the city and has been synonymous with our economy over the past century-and-a-half. Plus, it's a great opportunity to see the world-famous Clydesdales, some of which were more than happy to pose and play when they saw the tour groups approaching. As for the beer, the beechwood aging process is pretty fun to learn about, and seeing the giant steel aging vats certainly puts our world's love for alcohol into perspective. I certainly couldn't complain after having a freshly brewed berry-flavored draft at the end.
We also had to make one final stop, a restaurant called
Bailey's Chocolate Bar in Lafayette Square. We had heard it recommended from several of our fellow St. Louis transplants, and decided to give it a look.
The menu and theme is entirely based on, well, chocolate, though they do offer regular lunch specials and pizza as well. To say it was delicious would be an understatement. Mom tried their chocolate beer, while I went for the much-recommended chocolate martini (get it hot if you can). Everything was extravagant, and every table had a freshly place rose you could purchase for your significant other while on a romantic date. I was extremely impressed and would go there again in a heartbeat.
Nearly a month later, I'm typing this trying to remember everything that happened. I had been reluctant to write a blog on the city, feeling that my pictures and stories would not do it justice. Already, I would love to return for a second vacation. While definitely not a city I could probably live in for the rest of my life, it's certainly charming in its own right and well worth a visit. While New York and LA certainly get a lot of attention, and for good reason, St. Louis is a destination with many, many offerings that are easy to pass over among the bigger cities. I feel as though there's even more I can show, from the Fox Theater, to the Muny, to the Science Center. I may have moved, and I certainly don't miss Cape Girardeau, but St. Louis will always be the city I compare others to.