Saguaro National Park

 

There are few places in the world that seem to live out the Old West frequently seen only when accompanied by John Wayne or Clint Eastwood. However, search long enough, and you will find such places within the Sonoran Desert of the southwestern United States. In these spots, time has not brought change to the world. Rocks may be decorated with paintings from an ancient tribe. Overhead, the echo of hawks really does resound throughout hidden valleys.

Thankfully, not all such places require an ox-driven wagon to get to. Just outside of Tucson, Arizona lies one of the most unique expanses of desert in the world: Saguaro National Park. One of the newer National Parks, having been designated in 1994, the Saguaro and its namesake encompass two different areas on each side of the city of Tucson. Each half covers a varied landscape featuring everything from dry desert basin to rugged mountainside dotted with Douglas fir and pine. If unable to make a trip the park, don't worry! The Sonoran Desert the saguaro calls home sprawls across southern Arizona, California, and even parts of northern Mexico. While the density of the giant cacti is distinctive of the park, any trip across the southern US can see them dotting the I-10 freeway.

My trip was reserved for the western area of the park. This half is known mostly for it's arid climate and sweeping basins. Aside from the saguaro, few plants grew taller than my chest. Pockmarking the landscape were huge boulders to offer some shelter from the wind. Several trails can be found throughout this expanse, and for families on a day-trip, the 5-to-6-mile Bajada Loop can be driven through an unpaved portion of the park. I also highly recommend a stop at the Red Hills Visitor Center not only to pay the $10 car fee for the park, but for some great information on the trails and paths throughout the park. The shop offered plenty of resources on wildlife in the area for those photographers that may be inclined (I will gladly admit to playing with some coyote and roadrunner dolls in the store). The 15-minute slide show is also a must-see with its nice "surprise" ending.

My trip was relatively short, having been in the area for only one day. The weather was cool with storms beginning to rip through the area. While this would deter many visitors, I found it to be extremely thrilling as there are only a few times of the year that this great desert would receive any rain. The family and I definitely got a little wet, but nothing near the levels of the monsoon season in early Summer that can cause flash floods through the park. Besides, the sheer scale of the saguaro in the area were enough to capture my attention despite any weather.

The saguaro are protected in the state of Arizona with permits needed to move or destroy one of the cacti for construction purposes. Because of this, most residents and visitors have no doubt seen these behemoths throughout the landscape. However, driving through the entrance to the park seemed as if a line had been drawn in the sand, inside of which the saguaro become a forest of needles and arms. According to the 2010 census, the park has an estimated 1,896,030 saguaros! This was in addition to the dozens of other desert plants found at the feet of the symbolic cacti. In addition to the sheer numbers, were the size of many of the plants, the largest of which can grow 50 feet tall. Many of them were armless, meaning they were relatively young in Saguaro Time. Usually, a saguaro will begin to grow arms between 50-70 years old. As I walked along the Hugh Norris Trail, time was essentially lost as realization set in that many of this expanse had looked the same when those classic Western films were just beginning to be released. Yes, looking into the distance a traveler can see telephone wires and paved streets. But, in the mountains themselves, one of the larger saguaros had probably remained as a silent sentinel since the days of the earliest settlers of old.

All-in-all, the Saguaro National Park was a wonderful day trip, and I would love to go back and explore it in greater detail (possibly without the rain, despite the wonderful photo opportunities it gave). While not as famous or large as perhaps Yosemite or the Grand Canyon farther north, the park is definitely deserving of its national status. Walking among gigantic, five-armed forests, it's easy to see why. Listen closely, and you may even hear the sounds of galloping horses and John Wayne's Winchester rifle in the distance.

 

Saguaro National Park Website 

Wildwood Canyon

Despite its infatuation with cars, Los Angeles can still be an interesting place for nature-lovers to visit. It is, after all, a giant basin surrounded by impressive mountains in nearly every direction. The city is surprisingly park-friendly with little pockets of greenery throughout the city and a few major areas like Griffith Park and the Angeles National Forest to the Northeast. Hikers and picnickers alike can find plenty to offer if they are willing to search a little.

A personal favorite of mine lately has been Wildwood Canyon, nestled in the Verdugo Mountains that dominate the Burbank skyline. I managed to go early enough one morning that it was extremely quiet with little traffic and found it to be a fairly difficult but satisfying hike. Parking was free, and you will find gorgeous views of the mountains, downtown Burbank, and even a little training fire range for BPD as shown above. As you ascend the trail, you begin to feel like you are in the heart of a massive range rather than in the middle of a city, and there are points where the San Fernando Valley almost completely disappears from views. For those less exercise-inclined, the benches along the main road through the park offer a nice place to escape and read for a few with peace and quiet.

There is very little shade on the hiking trails, so try to go during cooler temperatures if possible. My personal favorite is during the transitional seasons where mornings are cool enough to create beautiful clouds and fog among the mountain peaks while leaving the ground visible and clear. Just be ready for a fairly winding hike once you get started, especially if you are new to hiking. But, get to the top near the radio tower and you'll certainly feel a sense of accomplishment.

You can find more information at The LA Mountains Website

Extreme Exposure

My business phrase in photography has always been "Bringing the World to You." While there are many different types of photography out there, each with their own unique nuances and cliques, my personal favorite has always been the types of photographs that inspire people to view parts of the planet that they may not normally know of or hear about. For me, photography is a way to bring far away locations and cultures to people who may not have thousands of dollars sitting around to spend on a luxury expedition. Whether you're in the Midwest or sitting on the steps of Angkor Wat, the Earth contains of a wide variety of atmosphere that are, surely, unique to someone else. I suppose this is why I am so enthralled National Geographic, as their photography has been bringing locations both near and far to readers around the world for over a decade.

This past Saturday, as Abrah and I were sitting around trying to figure out some way to pass the weekend by, we realized that the Annenberg Space for Photography was opening their newest exhibit, Extreme Exposure. Without much hesitation, we drove down to Century City to take a look. By far, it has been one of my favorites of the three exhibits I've managed to check out. The display featured five photographers and prints that, while not necessarily officially showcased by National Geographic, were no strangers to their mission. Everything I love about travel and exotic photography was on display, with each photographer focusing on a certain area from the extremes of the Earth. Two of the photographers, Michael Nichols and Paul Nicklen, I had heard and seen quite a bit from before from reading NGM. I was pleasantly surprised by the others that I was not familiar with, however: Clyde Butcher and the married team of Donna and Stephen O'Meara.

Upon first entering and being greeted by the always-friendly staff, you are met with an introduction to each of the photographers and what their display was focused on. As we would walk around, the photographers also had displays of items used on their respective journeys, giving the Space even more depth and detail than normal. I knew I would fall in love with this current round of photos because the first photo a visitor comes across in the entrance hallway is that of the famous redwood tree that graced National Geographic only a short while back. It was a picture that made my trip to Muir Woods an absolute necessity earlier this year. Composed by stitching together 84 images, the final image is positively lovely in print with a great deal of color and detail popping out that is hard to recreate via the internet or limited magazine spreads. Even more impressive, Michael Nichols later says in his video that they can easily print out the image life-size; it's a final image that rests over 300 feet tall. I pray that one day the side of the Annenberg and CAA buildings have this tapered on their sides like so many other billboards in Hollywood.

After you notice the redwood print, the first photographer to be highlighted is Paul Nicklen with his prints of the coldest places on Earth, complete with personal drysuit on display. Out of all the photos, I think I loved Paul Nicklen's the most. I had first heard of his work not through his photos but by a story from my Iris Nights lecture with David Griffin. Paul's story was the same "sea lion story" I had mentioned previously. Sure enough, several of the same images I saw from Mr. Griffin's lecture were there in canvas form for display. Apparently, Paul had run across a female leopard seal while doing a story. Feeling testy, it began to snap at the camera's underwater housing. After it realized Paul was not a threat, it actually began to try feeding him by capturing penguins and bringing them back to the photographer. It was a cute story, and the pictures are extremely vivid to see brought to live. His photos of the arctic are colorful and sharp in a world most normally associate with being devoid of much life. Whether it's a lone polar bear or narrowly avoiding a walrus's headbutt, Paul Nicklen's photos are great at conveying a story and atmosphere.

Next down the line were Donna and Stephen O'Meara, a husband and wife team specializing in volcano photography. Their gifts to the display were a giant block of pahoehoe lava and their trekking boots. I found their exhibit fairly interesting, if partially because of the timing. Several of their photos feature Eyjafjallajokull, the notorious Icelandic volcano that shut off travel throughout Europe earlier this Summer (also famous for having Top Gear host James May drive up to its crater in a Toyota Hilux). for myself, the volcano pictures were largely reminiscent of my short time living Hawaii when I was younger. They definitely Kilauea in their displays, with plenty of hot lava flowing from every still.

Clyde Butcher's displays were on the open area next to the center screening room of the Annenberg, and I felt he was the most surprising of the photographers. His work is mostly Large Format and focuses on the Florida Everglades. His prints are definitely to be seen in person to be appreciated. They are composed in black and white and feature a stunning detail I have never seen in print before. He says in his video that he wants "people to feel like they can walk into a photo." The essence is certainly there. His gift to the exhibit of course was one of his large format view cameras, an 8x10 I believe. His statements do seem markedly anti-digital, but his story is certainly inspiring and the format he chooses works wonders. Even though the Everglades seem somewhat less exotic than the other areas featured, he captures them in a way that seems extremely foreign.

Michael Nichols can be found on the exit hallway and the restroom area. It's amazing what this man has accomplished with 25 stories shot for National Geographic, let alone other publications. His exhibit placed an emphasis on more forests, especially the Congo and the redwood range of the Western US. I found Michael's work to be interesting, if anything, because several of the extremely fun photos were taken via remote camera traps, including one with a very slimy and imposing crocodile tail. His were also some of the view to feature people in this exhibit, and to no surprise, captured to most sense of urgency. Much like the Water exhibit, some (but certainly not all) of his photography highlighted issues facing environments today, especially to Congolese prints. This was both a positive and negative to some, as both Abrah and a few others stated this and the Water exhibit similarly focused too much on trying to make a statement. I did not mind, but it was a stark contrast to the other photographers who focused on letting beautiful and foreign lands speak for their own nature.

Overall, Extreme Exposure is a highly recommended showcase if you can make it down to the Los Angeles area between now and April 17th. I believe it has been my favorite and most well-measured display so far with Water close behind. With any luck, these images will help inspire even more to view our world from different angles.

New Website

So, after a solid 30-40 hours of learning Flash from scratch, I have officially started a website for my photography. Please check it out and let me know what you think!

Wes Smith Photography

Expedition: Muir Woods and Monterey Aquarium

I'm going to try to keep regular, updated blogs when I get the chance to visit areas I find interesting or beautiful. It's less a journal and more a shortened (very short in most cases) photo-essay I'm simply calling "Expedition." This first one was allowed me by the Muir Woods National Forest and the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

My first visit was Muir Woods, just across the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. One of the earliest national monuments (just the 7th dedicated by President Teddy Roosevelt), the relatively small park (by National Monument Standards, anyway) encompasses the southern tip of the great Redwood tree range. The land was originally bought by businessman William Kent, who eventually donated close to 300 acres of the property to the federal government to thwart the plans of a water company to dam and flood the valley it calls home. Kent insisted that the park be named after none other than John Muir, the "Father" of the National Park System.

The redwoods here are small compared to their Oregon siblings but impressive nonetheless. The tallest living things on the planet, these gigantic trees can tower well over 300 ft. They are often so large, in fact, that their upper branches can often support miniature ecosystems of their own, including smaller bushes growing out of soil collected over time. The oldest of the trees have been around since before the New Testament. They can only survive in a few areas along the coast, relying on the morning fogs and light drizzle for the majority of their liquid needs. Because of their fast growth, resilient bark, and thick wood, societies around the world have relied on them for timber for decades. Strict regulations in the US prevent too much over-cutting in the present day, but 97% of the old-growth forests have been replaced with much smaller and re-cut, replanted varieties.

I only managed to visit one of the shorter trails of the forest for my first visit (it was a random trip, and none of us wore prepared attire, let alone my poor camera dealing with the damp conditions). Still, the majesty of these trees were not lost on us, and I fully intend to head back for a more in-depth visit in the future. National Geographic had actually had a great article on the giants late last year, so I was ready to see them for myself, even if only the very Southern tip of their range.

The next day, my girlfriend Abrah and I went for a trip to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, ranked by many as one of the top aquariums in the United States (it seems to go back and forth with Atlanta's). It holds over 600 species, 35,000 plants, a stingray petting zoo, and an attendance closing in on 2 million a year. The tickets were somewhat pricey at $30 a person, but the attractions were very impressive. The building itself was a former sardine cannery that had been bought and converted by none other than David Packard, co-founder of the Hewlett-Packard company. Many of the elements were designed and built by his forge in Big Sur, as he was an avid blacksmith.

One of these elements were wave machines atop a 350,000 gallon water tank. These wave machines enabled the MBA to become the first to grow California Giant Kelp in a controlled environment. Now, the tank houses not only the kelp, but all sorts of creatures within, including sharks, rays, and smaller fish.

On the other end is what i would consider the main exhibit. Behind one of the world's largest single-paned windows is a 1.2 million gallon tank filled with the deep sea creatures. The exhibit here constantly has animals being transferred in and out depending on what research needs done. Sure enough, on our visit it had everything from yellow- and blue-fin tuna to a hammerhead shark. Last year, for a few short months, they even had yet another Great White on display.

Among the cooler sections were the jellyfish displays. They had a large viewing area for a throng of red sea nettle jellyfish and several smaller tanks for a few different species. As you enter into the jellies area, you pass through a circular room circled by the anchovies the building once canned as a staple to the Monterey economy.

Overall, the experiences were very wild and only enhanced my desire to travel and take photos of these wonderful, natural locations. I hope you enjoy the few photos I have processed so far, but don't forget that these can never replace visiting such great areas in person!

Please visit my photo gallery page to see these in full resolution: My Photo Gallery

The National Park Service Website

The Monterey Bay Aquarium Website


Rushing Waves by =serphius on deviantART

Muir Woods Moss by =serphius on deviantART

Muir Woods by =serphius on deviantART

Under the Bay by =serphius on deviantART

Jelly 1 by =serphius on deviantART

Jelly 2 by =serphius on deviantART